
1912 Belmore Browne Expedition in the Chulitna River Canyon
This year marks the 100th anniversary of the 1912 Belmore Browne Expedition into the Alaska Range, a journey that started in Seward, Alaska by dog team and ultimately reached a point about 300 meters short of Denali’s summit in late June ( they were turned back due to extreme winds on two separate summit attempts). This amazing journey, as well as Browne’s earlier explorations in the Alaska Range are documented in his book, The Conquest of Mt. McKinley. (He was part of the 1906 Frederick Cook expedition after which Dr. Cook falsely claimed the summit of Denali, and he led the 1910 expedition that discovered Cook’s “false peak” off the north east fork of the Ruth Glacier.) Along with Charles Sheldon, Belmore Browne was instrumental in the 1916 Senate hearings that led to the creation of Denali National Park. Mr. Browne moved on to a career as an artist (an oil he painted in 1907 is the first known painting of Mt. McKinley). His work can be seen at the Anchorage Museum of History and Art, the American Museum of Natural History in New York, the Smithsonian, and the Seattle Art Museum among others.
This summer, thanks to a generous grant from the Alaska Humanities Forum, Northern Susitna Institute will sponsor a Belmore Browne Centennial Commemoration featuring a presentation by Brian Okonek and a collection of 153 glass slides that “were used by Belmore Browne to illustrate the many lectures he delivered to audiences around the United States after his return from the 1912 Expedition.” Brian Okonek co-founded Alaska Denali Guiding, Inc (ADG) in 1983 and directed the company until 2001, overseeing sixty expeditions to Denali. He has climbed throughout the world and Alaska though his favorite stomping grounds are near his home in Talkeetna where he has traveled many miles by foot, skis, and dog sled exploring his backyard wilderness. Brian’s name is referenced in countless Alaskan climbing guidebooks and he has numerous first ascents to his credit. “Brian has as much or more history in the Alaska Range and Alaskan mountains than anyone,” said Dr. Bradford Washburn.
Details of this event will be forthcoming…